The choices were amazing, the aromas seducing, and a lot of diets went out the window. Whether glazed, frosted and decorated with sprinkles, jelly-filled, baked or fried, doughnuts are hard to pass up. Certainly none of us that morning in the parking lot could.
A box of doughnuts from Sweet House Bakery. (Contributed photo by Holly Ebel)
Doughnuts (also spelled donuts) have been around in some form for a long time. Supposedly, they came to Manhattan with the Dutch and were called olykoeks ("oily cakes"). As happens, others picked up on the concept, and over time, they became an important part of bakery offerings. The hole in the middle? It's said that a 16-year-old American seaman named Hanson Gregory didn't care for the doughy center and punched the middle out. (That also gave us doughnut holes.) Doing that let the insides and outsides cook evenly. That was 1847.
The popularity of this sweet really took off after World War I, when soldiers returned to the states. They had been served doughnuts in the trenches by women volunteers as a "taste of home," and now they wanted more. The same thing happened during World War II, when Red Cross women, called "Doughnut Dollies," passed them out. That all solidified doughnuts as a special American treat.
So what makes a good doughnut? It's likely a personal thing, but doughnut lovers will agree that flavor, aroma and texture are factors. Also, those filled doughnuts? Their fillings should taste like what they claim to be. The bottom line, however, is a good dough, whether they're baked or fried. Of course, most grocery stores have cases full of them, but here are a few independent local bakeries that really know their doughnuts.
Sweet House Bakery on Second Street, across from Saint Marys. Owner Jenyce Habibovic has only been in business a few months, but already has quite a following. You'll see doughnuts in all shapes and sizes — long johns, raised glazed, plain, frosted, even apple fritters. A new addition in the works is a doughnut bread pudding.
Habibovic arrives every morning just after midnight and makes at least 60 of each kind. Get there early, as the space is packed, and some varieties sell out. Hours are 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, 7 to 11 a.m. on Saturdays, and closed Sunday and Monday. When there are leftovers, she donates them to various organizations around town.
Otto's Bakery in Byron (513 Frontage Road NW) has been a doughnut fixture since 1973. Owners and bakers Otto and Ann Marie Hemmah offer a wide assortment — their long johns are especially popular.
"Saturday mornings, people are lined up outside the door," Ann Marie said (and I can verify).
They are also known for their Danishes, cinnamon rolls, and a variety of other specialties. For many years, until the pandemic, they have donated their sweets to Zumbro Lutheran Church on Sunday mornings, something they hope to do again soon. Hours are 6 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, and 6 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Saturday. Closed on Sunday.
The granddaddy of local bakeries is Bloedow's in Winona (451 E. Broadway), which has been in business since 1924. Their reputation from the beginning has been built on doughnuts. Store manager Jenny Kanne said their original recipes are key to their longtime success.
"The ingredients are still the same, but the products are different. There are more options," she added.
Most days, there are at least 30 different kinds. Among the choices: eight different varieties of long johns and cake doughnuts, raised glaze, frosted, and more. On a busy day, like a Saturday, Kanne said they can easily sell over 300 dozen. A normal day, they see about 200 dozen go out the door. Their breads are also popular ,with about 100 loaves sold every day.
Trust me, it's worth the drive. Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday, closed Sunday.
Drift Dough, owned by Mason Matter, is a unique doughnut shop tucked into a cozy spot in Forager Brewery (1005 6th St. NW). While they have the classics, like plain, sugared and chocolate, they are known for their unique flavors. How about cotton candy crunch, sweet corn, matcha and stroopwaffle? Be forewarned: These doughnuts sell out quickly, especially on the weekend.
Vegan and gluten-free varieties are also available, but it's best to order ahead. In fact, that's good advice anyway for this one-of-a-kind place. Hours are 7 a.m. to noon Wednesday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
A variety of cake donuts from Drift Dough Friday, May 14, 2021, in Rochester. (Joe Ahlquist / jahlquist@postbulletin.com)
Recently, two other coffee shops/bakeries opened: Roasted Bliss (2550 S. Broadway) and Scooter's (corner of 16th and Broadway). Roasted Bliss was a popular doughnut spot in St. Charles, but since their move, they have eliminated doughnuts and pastries, and are focusing on other items, one being cream puffs. Check out their Wednesday cream puff special.
Scooters is a franchise out of Omaha, and focuses more on muffins, cinnamon rolls, croissants and breakfast sandwiches, as well as specialty drinks. No doughnuts.
Post Bulletin food writer Holly Ebel knows what’s cookin’. Send comments or story tips to life@postbulletin.com.
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May 18, 2021 at 06:35PM
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